There appears to be a lot of delightful mixtures at London Fashion Week this season, which I touched upon in my Louise Gray and Eun Jeong posts earlier this week (or was it even last week, time has confused me). With Spijkers en Spijkers (try pronouncing that with your mouth full and no concept of Dutch pronunciation) it was a more understated version, which was all about mixing your broderie anglaise with kaleidoscopic prints with a dash of cut-out subtraction to show off areas of the body. I definitely feel that the trend of revealing random parts of the body will be out in full force next Summer, but not in a reality-tv-star-nip-slip kind of way as nothing is ever too obvious. With all the prettiness on display, it’s interesting to discover the collection was inspired by the song ‘Where the Wild Roses Grow’ detailing a somewhat poetic murder involving two lovers. After a quick read of the lyrics here, that cut-out detail I was admiring earlier begins to take on a slightly more sinister undertone of preserving beauty before it fades.
Not only did I admire how the unusual inspiration was translated, I also loved how the delicate nature of the pieces was interrupted by the black panels of lace covering far sweeter patterns of wild roses. Just be beware next season when you’re wearing your floral frocks and your boyfriend comes back with a bunch of flowers and asks you if you want to see where the wild roses grow…
Remember my post on deconstructed t-shirts? Wait, you were busy that day? Well this piece reminds me of this concept by Yang Li I wrote about aeons ago
Another spliced spectacular was present at the Bryce Aime show, taking on an Far East Asian influence with a colour palette reminiscent of candy (but more likely the Beijing Opera). There was a lot of asymmetry and contrast panels to make the typical shift dress a lot more interesting plus some jackets inspired by traditional Japanese Kabuki costume whilst staying modern and relevant for today.
As well as the catwalks at London Fashion Week, there are also exhibition stands where the designers can show off their wares in more detail and buyers can make appointments leading to the collection eventually being stocked and bought by a select few. I ventured towards the small Newgen sheds outside Somerset House to check out some shows I didn’t make it to (or even receive an invite for that matter) to purely concentrate on the details you might have missed while viewing the livestreams. Michael van der Ham also has a spliced signature look with a slightly vintage feel due to the materials used. Each piece appears unique and probably won’t appeal to everyone due to some extreme clashes, reminding me of how I love the London designers defiantly sticking to their guns and sparking debate. I wonder what’s instore for next season?
My dodgy photos, full collection here
The grace and elegance of figure skaters came to mind, with the flattering shapes seen at David Koma’s stand, creating structure to exaggerate the feminine form to powerful proportions. Seeing the construction close-up was also insightful and I loved the use of godets and monochrome panelling to create a illusion to make even the slightest model grace the realms of voluptuousness. I spy a graduation dress, now to snag a millionaire…
If you’re reading this now, well done for making it to the end of the page and I hope the pictures and videos didn’t crash your computer! What is your take on the ‘Spliced and Diced’ trends seen at fashion week? I’m a definite fan of contrast and may resort to sewing two forgotten shirts together Park and Cube stylee next season, who’s with me?